KENYA: A Python Beckons

We pull out of Ndololoo Camp before 7:00 am, eager for our morning game drive in Tsavo East National Park. Peter has already been listening to the banter over the radio provided by other drivers that left before breakfast. Within several hundred meters the pace of our vehicle picks up, and we realize there must be something to chase. While it is great fun to find our own good mammals, there is a certain excitement when going after a reported sighting. Peter does not usually let-on the reason, as I guess he doesn’t want to disappoint us in case it’s gone when we arrive. And maybe he likes to dole-out surprises. But this time he did say one word, “Python.”

Where? How far? How big? we asked. All we got as a response was, “Kanderi.” The large swamp located a couple kilometers east of our tented camp. Nearly all the lions that I had been hearing in the night seemed to be coming from that direction, and indeed, safari drivers had been checking (unsuccessfully) for a pride. I recalled a story I was told several years ago by someone who went on a safari and witnessed an unfortunate Impala in the grips of an African Rock Python, and the several hours it took to devour the antelope. Our hearts raced with anticipation.

We arrived at Kanderi to find it devoid of the wildlife show that makes this swamp one of Tsavo’s main attractions. The surrounding grasses and shrubs were lush and green from recent rains, but no animals in sight. We see two vehicles parked and the occupants all looking in a singular direction. Visions of a huge python laying across the swamp is what we wanted. We follow their gaze. Yes, there it is. Large and dark, coiled up about 50 meters away, it was glistening in the sun, undoubtedly from having recently been in the water.

We focused our binoculars on the dark object, and see only a tire. Slightly submerged, with distinctive treads and a slash, the tire lay motionless. Acknowledged as such, Todd continues to scan, determined to find the python that everyone was looking at. Double checking the direction that the others are looking, following pointing fingers, and the aim of clicking cameras, Todd insists that the python has to be somewhere.

I tell Todd that most likely the others were looking at the tire and thought it was a python. Todd is skeptical and wants to make sure that the biggest snake he has ever seen is not going to elude him. The two vehicles drive away before I get a chance to question them, presumably thrilled to add a totally unexpected reptile to their already-incredible safari experience. Soon another vehicle arrives at the scene. It’s not long before it appears that they have found the reptile. Wanting a better look, they pull around in front of us. Todd continues to scan intently, while I mention that these people are looking in the direction of the tire. Are they really thinking that….? We check again, to be certain it is a tire. It is.

Peter decides we have had enough and as he moves on, we pause so that I can ask the four gentlemen in the other vehicle, “What are you looking at?” “A Python”, a Brit replies. “Where?” “Right there.” He points in the direction of the dark object that we have been studying carefully for the last ten minutes, the one with a bit of sidewall missing and threads from the tread showing. “Where is the Python in relation to the tire?” I inquire. I hear him relay this information to his companions. Undoubtedly, they were disappointed to miss the giant snake that was the highlight of many people’s morning game drive in the Kanderi Swamp!

all photos © adrian binns