KENYA: Taita Hills

From the plains we climbed up the Taita Hills to the Ngangao Forest (above) at a height of 6400 ft (1950m). As our vehicle lugged up the steep incline we spotted three White-naped Ravens flying over the villages around the mountain. We spotted our first target endemic before reaching the forest - a feeding flock of five Taita White-eyes beside the road. Near the summit we picked up our local guide, Jonam, then alighted at the top, spotting two Lanners soaring high overhead. We spent a moment surveying the picturesque, terraced farms below, before walking the road before us, in search of our target, high-elevation endemics. Our morning brought lots more, including Eastern Olive Sunbird, Blackcap, Hartlaub’s Turaco, Tambourine Dove (heard) and Syke’s Monkey. We were thrilled to find Yellow-throated Woodland Warbler, Cabanis Greenbul, White-starred Robin, Emerald Cuckoo and a pair of Black-fronted Bush-Shrike - all new for the trip.

Jonam’s sharp eyes soon guided us to our other two target endemics, Taita Apalis (above), and the hard-to-find Taita Thrush, scratching deep within the shadowed underbrush. A few of us were lucky to see the Striped-faced Greenbul, a resident of high-elevation forest.

Having spent the morning in the mountains, we had a considerable distance to go to get to where we were staying on the coast. The journey was broken up with a hour’s stop along the Mombassa road where we walked the dry thorn scrub in the heat of the afternoon. A number of arid species were seen well, including Dodson’s Bulbul, Village Indigobird, Zanzibar Sombre Greenbul, Namaqua Dove and Red-fronted Warbler. But the Bare-eyed Thrush, Golden Pipit (above) and Tsavo Sunbird stole the show, providing great looks.

all photos © adrian binns

KENYA: The Tsavo's .....East

The dry savanna dominates much of Tsavo East, though most of grass was tall and green as a result of a successful short rainy season. Entering via the Manyuni Gate we soon saw Eastern Paradise Whydah (above) in display flight, Grasshopper Buzzard, Olive-tree Warblers, the first of many Buff-crested Bustards and a flock of male Somali Ostrich. Along one section of brush we hit a pocket of species that included Golden-breasted Bunting, Golden Pipit, Pale Prinia, Pringle’s Puffback, Grey Wren Warbler and D’Arnaud’s Barbet.

At Mudanda Rock (above) we alighted to walk to the top of this long flat ridge, where two days previously a group had walked to the crest only to find eleven lions laying on the rock - a slow retreat, walking backwards followed! We were fortunate, or maybe not as lucky, instead our excitement came in the form of two Peregrines flying around us and having fun chasing a Greenshank. An African Marsh Harrier was also seen quartering the savanna below us.

Heading south we came across yet another Grasshopper Buzzard though this one was a sub adult. A Pangani Longclaw was perched up on a grass stem and two Eurasian Hoopoe kept their distance from the vehicle walking ahead of us. Nearly all the Elephants we saw were the color of the soil - red - including those that were enjoying a healthy mud bath (above).

Maybe it was the mid afternoon hours but walking the vicinity around Ndoloolo was slow with the best sightings being Pearl-spotted Owlets and a Pygmy Batis. We were advised to leave the area when a bull Elephant began to announce that he was on his way towards us! The River Circuit produced a wonderful a patch of birds including many Golden-breasted Starlings and Golden Pipits. A Rufous Bush-Chat (above) showed well as did a few Rufous Chatterers that walked across the track, and a pair of roosting African Hawk-Eagles.

Kanderi Swamp (above) was rather quiet with dozens of large pachyderms, Grey-headed Sparrow and Fischer’s Starling.

Aruba Dam on the other hand was full of water with African Spoonbills and an assortment of shorebirds and ducks lining the waters edge. A Savannah Monitor was in the water and Common Waterbuck, along with a herd of Elephants ventured in to drink. Thousands of Open-billed Storks (above)  staged between this site and the nearby windmill pond.

The short grass plains near the dam was anything but short! Consequently, much of the expected avian activity had dispersed well beyond this area. A flock of nine Caspian Plovers (above) were found foraging along the airstrip, where many nervous Chestnut-backed Sparrow-Larks would alight for a short period before taking off and dropping back down to feed. This is good habitat for larks and we had the good fortune to find White-tailed Lark, Sing Bush Larks, as well as several Red-winged Larks. For a large bird it certainly has a wimpy song! There was the briefest glimpse of a Common Quail before it vanished in a flash into the thick grass. Both Taita Fiscal and Tsavo Bush-shrike, two arid shrike species, were far more cooperative, perching in the open for all to see.

On the grounds of the Ashnil Lodge we encountered White-throated Bee-eaters (above) actively feeding on wasps! While tracking down a Northern Brownbul we came across an Icterine Warbler and an unexpected calling Great Reed Warbler.

Returning to our lodge at dusk we drew a small crowd of inquisitive onlookers, as we watched Tomb Bats leaving the enclave of the gift shop eaves.

all photos © adrian binns

KENYA: The Tsavo's - West....

East Africa’s largest park covers 20,000 square kilometers and is divided into two, West (above) and East. The deep red soils of Tsavo are covered with a mix of dense brush, acacias festooned in white flowers following the rains, palm trees lining the river and patches of golden savannah. The scenery is truly magnificent with many recently extinct volcanoes towering over the landscape and fingers of lava running through the bush.

Poachers and drought were the main causes behind the decline of both Black Rhinoceros and Elephants, however, both are now recovering and elephants were often sighted. While ones best chance of seeing a rare rhino is to visit the sanctuary within the park we did encounter less common mammals such as Fringed-eared Oryx (above) and Lesser Kudu.

Avian highlights of our game drive included many Eurasian Rollers (above); the stunning small Straw-tailed Whydah with its long flowing tail four times its body length, and several migrants - Barred Warbler, Irania, Common Whitethroat and Olivaceous Warbler. Few birds are smaller than the aptly named Tiny Cisticola, but one we did come across was the Mouse-coloured Penduline-Tit, reputed to be Africa’s smallest bird. An Ashy Cisticola and several White-winged Widowbirds were not terribly cooperative, whereas, Blue-naped Mousebird, Cut-throat Finch, Black-throated Barbet, Pied Wheatear and Black-crowned Tchagra certainly were.

While looking at a mixed flock of Black-cheeked and Crimson-rumped Waxbills that had just been bathing, a flash of blue led Ben to locate an African Pygmy Kingfisher (above) deep within a shrub.

Pure underground water from the nearby Chyulu Hills flows out from under lava boulders into limpid pools at Mzima Springs (above). Here hippos and crocs can be seen swimming in the clear water surrounded by dozens of fish. A few Taveta Golden and African Golden Weavers were nest building amongst the rushes that lined the banks. The call of a Giant Kingfisher led us to locate a male perched above the stream. Black-bellied Sunbirds, Thrush Nightingale and Upcher’s Warbler enhanced our pleasant afternoon walk. There were abundant raptors near the springs, including Little Sparrowhawk, Shikra, Grasshopper Buzzard, Secretary Birds, harriers, Wahlberg, Tawny and Steppe Eagle - some of the latter two perched.

The watering hole at the Kilaguni Lodge (above) draws in steady customers such as warthogs, bushbuck, impalas and zebras as well as mongoose, genets and elephant after dark. On our two nights here during dinner, a Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl alighted on a boulder by the water, and waited for rodents to appear.

The garden vegetation is a lush permanent oasis within the park, and an afternoon stroll produced Eastern Black-headed Orioles attending to two young chicks in their cup shape nest; Red-fronted Tinkerbird, Hunter’s and Scarlet-chested Sunbird........

......the large and beautiful Grey-headed Bush-shrike (above); rather plain looking Parrot-billed Sparrows; Bare-eyed Thrush and two very active Broad-billed Rollers flying sorties from canopy trees. Outside our rooms at night we found an African Scops Owl and several young Pearl-spotted Owlets begging for their parents to feed them.

On our last morning we opted to head out before breakfast and go in search of a Leopard. Word came over the radio that a Leopard (above) was being seen along a road west of the Chaimu Crater. To our surprise there was only one vehicle there when we arrived, as she was in full view, laying down on a huge boulder on the edge of the riverine habitat. Shortly thereafter a cub scrambled up the boulder to greet her. Following the pleasantries, he was enamored with her tail and took pleasure in playing with it as she flicked it back and forth. Boredom soon set in and he opted for a similar pose to her, leaning over the edge of the boulder undoubtedly looking at the noisy Crested Francolins below.

As an unexpected bonus, on our return to the lodge we came across a second mother and cub in a tree, though both descended and vanished shortly after we arrived.

all photos © adrian binns

TANZANIA: Lake Manyara NP

Standing on the lip of the western edge of the escarpment, where our lodge is located, we overlook the Great Rift Valley. An assortment of hirundines - Red-rumped Swallow, Rock Martins, White-rumped, Little and massive Mottled Swifts zip passed us as tremendous speed. Nestled at the foot of the Rift Valley 2/3rd of Lake Manyara National Park (above) is covered by the shallow soda lake. The name Manyara is derived from the Maasai word ‘emanyara’, for prickly euphorbia thorns - perfect for protecting their bomas.

From the entrance, the road winds its way through a thick broadleaf forest dominated by croton, fig, palms and mahogany. Narrow streams of groundwater cut paths through the woods. Sykes Monkeys and large troops of Olive Baboons (above) preen and play besides the road, and never seem to be too far from a water source. In more open areas herds of Impalas browse the brush, Warthogs graze the rough grass, and a mother Elephant was determined to make it across the dirt road with her young calf before we could get passed her.

In the woods we came across several pairs of Crowned Hornbills; a pair of Striped Kingfishers (above) happily resting on a perch and Ashy Flycatchers sitting below the canopy of shade trees. In the top of palm trees Collared Palm Thrushes, who were busy gathering food for their young, were being harassed by Fischer’s Lovebirds. We paused at a bridge over a fast flowing stream and watched a Mountain Wagtail hop from one boulder to another as a Holub’s Golden Weaver was bathing.

Once through the forest we entered a large expanse of short-grass floodplain. Warthogs, Zebra and Giraffes were the common mammals along this stretch. Grey-crowned Cranes (above) strolled close to the road and a couple of Cardinal Queleas were spotted amongst a multitude of Red-billed Queleas. At the hippo pool, the hippos had Common Sandpipers, Little Egrets and oxpeckers on their backs. Comb Ducks, White-faced Whistling Ducks, Spur-winged Plover, Pink-backed Pelicans, Water Thick-knees, Long-tailed Cormorants and herons, most of whom stood at the waters edge, added to the wonderful mix of species in this small area. Small flights of Lesser Flamingos could be seen in the distance, with many thousands seen later as we drove nearer to the edge of the lake. A Palm Nut Vulture flew in circling over the pool before landing in an acacia.

We made one other stop, this one being at the picnic site. Though we are allowed out of our vehicle here, the rangers kept us a tight leash and reigned us in just as we where tracking down three Black-and-white Cuckoos! Eastern Violet-backed Sunbird, Blue-capped Cordon-bleu and the brilliant Red-and-yellow Barbet (above) were very cooperative here.

As we headed back towards the impressive rise of the escarpment a small raptor, an Amur Falcon flashes by and we were able to find a small group of lovely Mosque Swallows in flight and eventually perched.,

Following lunch back at the Serena, we took a bit of break before heading back to the park for a night game drive. It gave everyone a chance to catch up on rest (Scott), wash (two weeks worth for Colin), and shopping (Alison). We did get to walk the grounds and soon had Scarlet-chested Sunbird, Spotted Morning Thrush, Spot-flanked Barbet, Southern Citril, Black Bishop and our target, Yellow-bellied Greenbul (above).

As night fell we entered the park for a bush dinner (above) put on by the creative Serena chef. Chicken, beef, assorted sauces, vegetables, tropical fruits....it was certainly an excellent dinner under the stars. This was followed by a couple of hours driving many of the tracks we had covered during the day. There was a steady stream of sightings in the spotlight throughout the evening. We began with a Large-spotted Genet, followed by an African Civet, several Crested Porcupine, White-tailed Mongoose, Greater Galago, Senegal (Lesser) Galago’s, Black-backed Jackal and Spotted Hyena.

Numerous Slender-tailed Nightjars (above) were on the dirt road, as well as a few Plain Nightjars. We ended this wonderful night funnily enough by finding roosting Silvery-cheeked Hornbills, a species that we should have seen but missed in the daytime!

all photos © adrian binns

TANZANIA: A Serengeti Surprise

A guard stopped me as I was walking to breakfast, saying “Bwana, bundi, bundi.” “Mzuri sana,” I replied. Brilliant! In of all places, a Spotted Eagle Owl (above) was nesting in the bathroom window sill of one of the lodges!

As we headed south towards the southern Serengeti, we searched in vain for Grey-crested Helmet-Shrikes but did manage to find a rare Karamoja Apalis in a section of Whistling-thorn Acacia. A Croaking Cisticola was singing (croaking?) in the same area, and Grey-breasted Spurfowl (above), a Tanzanian endemic, crossed the road going between thickets. As we neared Seronera, Grey Hornbills became more numerous; one or two White-headed Saw-wings were seen; Coqui Francolins were heard; a Grey Kestrel was busy eating a meal and an immature Martial Eagle was an imposing sight atop a bare tree.

Our lunchtime stop at the Visitors Center brought more interesting sightings.  While we were viewing Grey-headed Silverbills, a nearby juvenile Eastern Pale Chanting Goshawk was begging. Around our picnic tables, a plethora of birds were looking for scraps including many Grey-capped Social-Weavers, a few Speke’s Weavers, Slate-coloured Boubou, a Green-winged Pytilia (above) and a Cardinal Woodpecker along with several Bush Rats!

As the day progressed, I felt rather poorly - something in my belly was not right. Over lunch and the ensuing hour, my condition deteriorated rather rapidly. Being in the middle of the Serengeti with little immediate help available, Ben called the Flying Doctors. With everyone’s help, I was well looked after by the group, they even packed my bags, and before I knew it, an AMREF (African Medical and Research Foundation) plane, aka The Flying Doctors (above), was ready to airlift me to Nairobi - what amazing service! Supposedly, it turned out to be food poisoning, but as everyone else was fine, who knows what it really was!

Two days later I was back with the group but I missed some really exciting things, things like being smack dab in the center of the Great Wildebeest Migration (above); a congregation of 10,000 White Storks staging at Lake Masek in preparation for their journey to Southern Europe; and the chilling thrill of being escorted by vehicle from the mess tent after dinner, to the sleeping tents barely 20 yards away, because a male Lion is roaring and prowling around the tents!!

top three photos © adrian binns
 bottom two photos © colin campbell

Barn Owl Nest Cam

Wow. This is extraordinary to witness. The hatching of Barn Owl chicks live on webcam! She laid 6 eggs and at least 3 have hatched. One can hear the sound of the chicks hissing and growling as they beg, the mother's bill tapping on the wooden box and even dogs barking in the background!

The box is very active with the mother constantly attending to the chicks.  I've just watched her tear off meat and feed small morsels to the chicks - so cool.

The link is     http://www.ustream.tv/theowlbox

or, one can google  "Molly's Barn Owl"

Barn Owl clutch sizes vary with the availablity of prey - rodents. In good years they can raise a dozen chicks! The eggs hatch asynchronously, meaning that she began to incubate before the last eggs were laid. Consequently the chicks hatch over a period of time, a day or two apart, as opposed to simultaneously. This strategy ensures that at the oldest chicks have a better chance of survival.

Since Barn Owls are nocturnal, don't expect to see the male bringing in food until after dark.

photo © adrian binns

TANZANIA: The Central Serengeti

A morning walk around the Serena grounds (above) produced Arrow-marked Babblers around the swimming pool, Bare-faced Go-away-bird, White-browed Scrub-Robin, Red-fronted Tinkerbird, Red-fronted Barbet, Red-fronted Warbler and a displaying Brown-crowned Tchagra at the new patio overlook. A gregarious group of Northern White-crowned Shrikes took a break from foraging and sat together on a branch preening, as a Marico and Beautiful Sunbird fought over a nearby nectar source. We tracked down a calling Pygmy Batis and came across a Common Redstart.

A Tanzanian Red-billed Hornbill (above) opening up its wings and slowly raising its head to expose its bare pink throat in display.

As we headed away from the Serena and towards the Retina Pool there were many stops along the way. We lost sight of a D’Arnaud’s Barbet that went from a shrub, to the ground, and then out of sight down its underground hole. Groups of Magpie Shrikes were a common sight and Black-lored Babblers showed well. The whydahs were a big hit with the group as we had excellent views of male Pin-tail, Steel-blue and Eastern Paradise Whydahs all with long tail streamers. In one tree a Meyer’s Parrot (above) kept guard at its nest hole and a Von der Decken’s Hornbill kept bringing nesting material and food to feed its mate.

On the Kubukubu loop road, the edge of the savanna held Double-banded Coursers, Grey-capped Social Weavers, Swahali Sparrow, Black-faced Sandgrouse, White-bellied Canary and Black-backed Jackals.
There was a steady parade of raptor sightings beginning with hovering Lesser Kestrels, both Montagu and Pallid Harrier, and a Black-headed Snake-Eagle sailing overhead. Secretary Birds were spotted on their nest. There was a very confiding Dark Chanting Goshawk (above) perched above our track in a Flat-topped Acacia and we finished with a pair of Pygmy Falcons (below) on top of a Whistling-thorn Acacia feeding on a agama lizard.

The concentration of hippos at Retina Pool was not as large as in years past, but nevertheless, there were more than we had encountered to date on this trip. This is one spot within the park where we are allowed out of our vehicles enabling us to walk down to the water level and get very close to them!

With so many packed into a small area it was not surprising that we witnessed various forms of aggression. Loud snorting and grunting preceded a huge commotion as a dominant male exploded out of the water and trounced a junior member of the pod. Others would pair off and jaw with each other. While all this was going on a Nile Crocodile kept its distance basking on the river bank, until it quietly slid into the water, drawing the attention of the closest hippos.

After lunch Colin found a Cinnamon-breasted Rock Bunting as we walked around the Serena compound and Erica came across a Golden-breasted Bunting. A Familiar Chat bopped about the lodges as a Black-faced Waxbill and Green-winged Pytillia bathed along with Red-cheeked Cordon-bleus and Bronzed Mannikins in a small depression.

During the afternoon game drive we began our search for Karamoja Apalis amongst patches of Whistling-thorn Acacia, but it is like looking for a needle in a haystack. As a consolation in this habitat we located a male Bearded Woodpecker. Fawn-coloured (White-browed) Larks were singing besides the track and we did find our only Black Coucal (above) of the trip.

all photos © adrian binns

TANZANIA: The Serengeti Unfolds

As we descend from the Highlands our view is tremendous. The Lemakarot Crater towers to our east, Oldupai Gorge is ahead of us and beyond that, the endless plains of the Serengeti National Park. Once we have reached the short grass plains that dominate this side of the Serengeti, we encounter our first taste of the largest migratory herd of animals left on earth. Herds of Wildebeest stream forth from the distant horizon in single file and follow ancient well-worn tracks northwards while others are spread out over the plains. Everywhere one looks there are Wildebeest.

Vultures descend from the skies attracted to a dying wildebeest calf. African White-backed (2nd from right), Ruppell’s (right) wait patiently for the larger Lappet-faced Vultures (left) to break open the carcass. It is a gruesome sight, but this is life on the plains.

As we neared Naabi Hill, the entranceway to the Serengeti NP, small flocks of Yellow-throated Sandgrouse could be seen alighting on the short grass. We were voyeurs as Spotted Hyenas mated besides the road and move rather quickly past the a rogue Elephant.

There was a chance to stretch our legs at Naabi Hill as Jonas had to take care of the paperwork. From our vantage point we could see the leading edge of the migration with thousands of Zebra spread across the plains. The acacias held Yellow-vented Eremomela and Brubru which interested a Gabar Goshawk and a Brown Snake-Eagle (above) glided over the hill. This turned into a little longer stop as the keys were locked in the vehicle! We were amazed at the sight of a safari land rover that was obviously well out of alignment, having been squashed and leaning to the left. No doubt it rolled over and hopefully no one was hurt.

It isn’t until we are through Naabi Hill that the tall grass plains dominate the landscape, interspersed with rocky outcroppings known as kopjes. Capped Wheatears and a pair Spotted Thick-knee perched on the raised roadside ridges. In sparsely vegetated areas Ruppell’s Starling and Fischer’s Lovebirds were seen.

Along the Seronera riparian area our first Leopard of the trip was seen asleep on the end of a Yellow-bark Acacia limb (about half way up the tree on the left side).

As the sun got lower in the horizon and the day was coming to an end, the Leopard (above) stretched and yawned a few times before raising its head to see a number of us admiring her.  Dangling from the lowest fork on the trunk was the carcass of a female Bohor Reedbuck, open at the belly.  From where we were positioned we could see a pair of small feet under the females body. While we may never know whether the Leopard had killed the mother or the calf first, she definitely placed the calf in the tree first, and the mother on top.

all photos © adrian binns

Tufted Duck in Chester Co, PA

A female Tufted Duck (above far right), first found by Holly Merker on March 18, continues to be seen. In the presence of Ring-necked Ducks, Ruddy Ducks, a Greater Scaup and few Mallards and Northern Shovelors, she is relatively easy to separate and identify.

In spite of its name, the tuft is not always visible, though she does have a hint of one (above). It is the males in breeding plumage that have a long drooping tuft. She is overall darker than the Ring-necked females with fewer markings, little to no white around the base of the bill, a rounded head and a noticeable yellow eye. One thing that I did notice is that while nearly all the Ring-necked Ducks float with their tails held up, similar to Ruddy Ducks, this was not always the case with the female Tufted Duck - in spite of the photographs! Maybe it is just not as pronounced.

Compare the female Tufted Duck (above far right) with the female Ring-necked Duck (3rd from left) amongst the male Ring-necked Ducks.   

She is being seen just north of the town of Eagle in Upper Uwchlan Twp, Chester County. Taking Rte 100 north from the Downingtown Exit of the PA Turnpike, go through Eagle to Fellowship Road. Turn right on Fellowship go less than half a mile. The bird has been on one of two water treatment ponds viewable from the gravel car park on the north western side of road. Check the PA ListServ on Birdingonthe.Net    www.birdingonthe.net/mailinglists/PENN.html    for the latest updates.

If it is not visible it may be that it is on the furthest pond and obscured by the rock embankment or sleeping on the rocks.

This is a common waterfowl that breeds across Northern Europe and Asia. It has only been recorded in Pennsylvania a couple of times and those have all been males.

all photos © jane binns